Sewing Information Facings - KarensVariety.com

Curtain, drapes and other home decorations, as well as garments, need facings. They are used at the neckline, skirt hem, sleeve edge, front of jacket or coat or blouse or wherever there is not enough material to turn a hem. The seams may be stitched by machine or by hand; turn the machine stitching so it will not show. Some facings are cut with the garment and turned back; others are cut same as garment edges, stitched and folded back. Be sure to lay material for facing so it matches the grain of the garment. If the edge is straight, the facing should be cut on the straight of the goods; if edges curve, the facing should be on a true bias or an exact duplication of the curve of the edge.

To cut a true bias, which is diagonal of material, fold straight grain (warp) of material parallel to the cross grain (woof), the folded edge is the true bias. Cut across this edge, using a measure or guide (Fig. 1).
Straight facings are used to turn an edge smoothly when it is not possible to spare fabric for a hem. They can turned as facings on the wrong side or used as trimming bands on right side. When the facing is to be turned on the wrong side, apply straight strip of fabric on the right side of the garment. Stitch facing and edge of garment in a seam. Turn to wrong side, baste seamed edge. Turn edge of facing under and hem to garment (Fig. 2).
Shaped facings are cut to duplicate the edge of garment, or are cut in one with the garment and folded back to resemble a facing (Fig. 3).
Scalloped Facings To face a scalloped edge, baste straight edge of facing to edge of material to be scalloped. Then mark scallops desired size, using a scallop marker, glass, cup or spool. Stitch along outlined made, stitch into each point of curve. Trim seam and clip curved seams. Turn to right side exactly on seam edge, baste and press each scallop. Turn edge of facing under and hem to fabric (Fig. 4).
Square Neck Facing With right sides together, baste of pin bias or straight facing to garment. Cut corners of facing to match neckline of garment and stitch. Trim and slash corners, turn to wrong side. Press and stitch around edge of facing if desired. If outer edges are not stitched, turn raw edges under and slip stitch (Fig. 5).
Round Neck Facing Baste or pin facing to garment. Stitch, clip curved parts of seam, trim and turn to wrong side. Press and baste folded edge at neckline, turn edge of facing, tack, blind-stitch or machine stitch to garment (Fig. 6).
V-Neck Facing With right sides together, baste facing to garment, allow plenty of material to mitre at point. Stitch ends of facing and press open seams at point. Stitch about 1/4 inch from edge at neckline. Slash corners, turn facing to wrong side. Machine stitch or tack to garment (Fig. 7).
Curved Collar with Bias Binding Pin and baste under edge of collar to neckline, hold neckline slightly snug to prevent buckling. Baste bias edging along upper edge of collar and stitch. Turn, baste and blind-stitch to wrong side (Fig. 8).
Round Collar with Bias Binding Cut a bias strip about 1 1/2 inches wide, baste to collar and neckline, stitch. Turn collar and binding. Make about a half inch turn on binding and baste, blind stitch to garment (Fig. 9).
Standing Collar with a Faced Front Opening Stitch collar at each end and clip, trim corners, turn and press. With right sides together, stitch facing to front of garment. Pin seams of collar and front opening, baste and stitch inner edge of collar to neckline of garment. Clip seam, press and turn collar and facing right side out. Baste turned edges, press and blind-stitch collar to stitching of neckline at back. Turn inner edge of facing, stitch to garment (Fig. 10).