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This is a wonderful time for plus size women
to sew their own clothes. Sewing pattern companies have noticed that there
are real women in the world who do not look like the models on the runway.
There are two things happening which are bringing about changes. The first
is that runway and magazine models are getting thin to the point of being
very unhealthy and this is affecting the health and self-esteem of young
girls. The second is the simple fact that the majority of women do not fit
the image presented by designers and manufacturers.
Plus Size
women have finally been noticed by designers and manufacturers. At one
time, plus size patterns were limited in number, design, and styles. There
is a growing trend to market to women as they are rather than as perceived
models and TV stars. The days of small sizes only are beginning to fade
and a vibrant new market is emerging.
The definition of Plus Size is extra
large or oversize clothing size. Other terms used are full figure, outsize, and bbw (big
beautiful woman). The definition however, does not include a definition of
regular size - oversize as compared to what? This has been left up to
individual marketers who have tended to use a very small size for
comparison.
Generally, any size over 14 is considered plus size, however, defining
plus size clothing varies from company to company. Different pattern
labelling is used: * By number: 16, 18,
20, etc.
* By the letter X meaning Extra Large: (X, 1X, 2X) (XL, XXL, XXXL) (XL,
1XL, 2XL).
* By the letter W after the number, meaning Women.
Patterns for women are referred to as Misses
sizes. Patterns for plus sizes are referred to as Womens sizes. I see this
as very confusing labelling. Misses patterns very often include plus
sizes so you are restricting your choices by only looking at womens plus
size patterns.
If you look at the size charts for Butterick, McCall's and Simplicity,
shown below, you will see that Butterick starts their plus sizing at 14,
however, McCall's and Simplicity start their plus sizing at size 18. All
have the same bust size of 40 for size 18.
So if you consider a size 14 or 16 to be a plus size, you could overlook
many patterns by looking only at plus size patterns.
The average American woman is 5'4" tall,
weighs 140 lbs, and wears a size 14 dress. Assuming this statistic to be
correct, any size on the upper end of the average scale is considered a
plus size. 60% of American women now fall into the plus size category.
Sewing pattern companies have noted this
trend and changes are now being introduced into the sizing of patterns.
Butterick features actress/designer Delta Burke, on their patterns;
a beautiful women with a wonderful flair for fashion, and an advocate for
the plus size woman.
McCall's has extended the size of its misses patterns up to size
26, made women's sizes more fashionable, and added new half-size patterns.
Simplicity has adopted the HOAX
Fashion Formula of full-figured body types, created by Mary Duffy. These
patterns are designed to create a visually more flattering shape.
H is fairly even in the bust and hips, but straight at the waist;
O is biggest at the waist, narrowing toward the shoulders and hips;
A is larger below the waist than above and widest from a front view
at the thigh line;
X is a curvy body with a full bust and hips and an indented waist.
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Butterick
Misses’
patterns are designed for a
well proportioned and developed figure; about 5'5" to 5'6" tall without
shoes.
Misses’ Petites
patterns are designed for the shorter figure; about 5'2" to 5'4" tall
without shoes.
|
SIZE
|
X-Small |
Small |
Medium |
Large |
X-Large |
XX-Large |
|
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
20 |
22 |
24 |
|
Chest |
28 1/2 |
29 1/2 |
30 1/2 |
32 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
|
Bust |
30 1/2 |
31 1/2 |
32 1/2 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
|
Waist |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 1/2 |
28 |
30 |
32 |
34 |
37 |
39 |
|
Hip |
32 1/2 |
33 1/2 |
34 1/2 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
|
Back Waist Length |
15 1/2 |
15 3/4 |
16 |
16 1/4 |
16 1/2 |
16 3/4 |
17 |
17 1/4 |
17 3/8 |
17 1/2
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Women’s
patterns are designed for the larger, fully mature figure, about 5'5"
to 5'6" tall without shoes.
Women’s Petites
patterns are designed for the
shorter woman's figure; about 5'2" to 5'4" tall without shoes.
|
SIZE |
X-Small |
Small |
Medium |
Large |
X-Large |
XX-Large |
|
14W |
16W |
18W |
20W |
22W |
24W |
26W |
28W |
30W |
32W |
|
- |
- |
- |
(38) |
(40) |
(42) |
(44) |
(46) |
(48) |
(50) |
| Bust |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
|
Waist |
29 |
31 |
33 |
35 |
37 |
39 |
41 1/2 |
44 |
46 1/2 |
49 |
|
Hip |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
56 |
|
Back Waist Length |
16 1/2 |
16 3/4 |
17 |
17 1/4 |
17 3/8 |
17 1/2 |
17 5/8 |
17 3/4 |
17 7/8 |
18 |
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McCall's
Misses’
for well-proportioned, developed figures
about 5'5" to 5'6" without shoes. Miss Petite about 5'2" to 5'3" without
shoes
|
SIZE |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
20 |
22 |
24 |
26 |
|
Bust
|
29 1/2 |
30 1/2 |
31 1/2 |
32 1/2 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
|
Waist
|
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 1/2 |
28 |
30 |
32 |
34 |
37 |
39 |
41 1/2 |
|
Hip
|
31 1/2 |
32 1/2 |
33 1/2 |
34 1/2 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
|
Back Waist Length
|
15 1/4 |
15 1/2 |
15 3/4 |
16 |
16 1/4 |
16 1/2 |
16 3/4 |
17 |
17 1/4 |
17 1/2 |
17 3/4 |
18 |
|
Petite
Back Waist Length
|
14 |
14 1/4 |
14 3/4 |
15 |
15 1/4 |
15 1/2 |
15 3/4 |
16 |
16 1/4 |
16 1/2 |
16 3/4 |
17 |
Women's/Women's Petite
for larger, more fully mature figures. Women's about 5'5" to 5'6" without
shoes.
Women's Petite for the Women's figure about 5'2" to 5'3" without shoes.
|
Size |
18W |
20W |
22W |
24W |
26W |
28W |
30W |
32W |
| Bust |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
| Waist |
33 |
35 |
37 |
39 |
41 1/2
|
44 |
46 1/2 |
49 |
| Hip |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
56 |
| Back Waist Length |
17 1/8
|
17 1/4
|
17 3/8
|
17 1/2
|
17 5/8
|
17 3/4
|
17 7/8
|
18 |
|
Petite
Back Waist Length
|
16 1/8
|
16 1/4
|
16 3/8
|
16 1/2
|
16 5/8
|
16 3/4
|
16 7/8
|
17 |
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Simplicity
Misses'/Miss Petite - For
well-proportioned, developed figures.
Misses' about 5'5" to 5'6" without shoes. Miss Petite under 5'4" without
shoes.
|
Sizes |
4 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
20 |
22 |
24 |
26 |
|
|
Bust |
29½ |
30 ½ |
31½ |
32½ |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
In |
|
Waist |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26½ |
28 |
30 |
32 |
34 |
37 |
39 |
41½ |
" |
|
Hip - 9" below waist |
31½ |
32½ |
33½ |
34½ |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
" |
|
Back Waist Length |
15½ |
15½ |
15¾ |
16 |
16¼ |
16½ |
16¾ |
17 |
17¼ |
17
3/8 |
17½ |
17 ¾ |
" |
|
Petite-Back Waist
Length |
14¼ |
14½ |
14¾ |
15 |
15¼ |
15½ |
15¾ |
16 |
16 ¼ |
16
3/8 |
16½ |
16
5/8 |
" |
Women's/Women's Petite
-
For the larger, more fully mature figures.
Women about 5'5" to 5'6" without shoes. Women's Petite under 5'4" without
shoes.
|
Sizes |
18W |
20W |
22W |
24W |
26W |
28W |
30W |
32W |
|
|
Bust |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
In |
|
Waist |
33 |
35 |
37 |
39 |
41 1/2 |
44 |
46 1/2 |
49 |
" |
|
Hip - 9" below waist |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
52 |
54 |
56 |
" |
|
Back Waist Length |
17 1/8 |
17 1/4 |
17 3/8 |
17 1/2 |
17 5/8 |
17 3/4 |
17 7/8 |
18 |
" |
|
Petite-Back Waist
Length |
16 1/8 |
16 1/4 |
16 3/8 |
16 1/2 |
16 5/8 |
16 3/4 |
16 7/8 |
17 |
" |
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