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Sewing
information
Hems
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Hems are quite important
in finishing any garment. They can be decorative or inconspicuous.
Hand hems show less than machine hems and are used on fine garments.
To make a plain hem, turn material to wrong side, and fold over the
raw edge about 1/4 inch; turn a second fold the desired width of hem.
A hem gauge is essential to ensure an even hem. The most common stitch
used for hemming is the felling stitch. It is made by sewing hem from
right to left and working toward you. Take a tiny stitch in the
garment and a tiny stitch in the folded edge of hem - catch only one
or two threads on the garment side; these stitches are rather
slanting. |
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Blind Hem
Blind hems are used when a
hem invisible on the right side is desired. Use the felling stitch,
working with matching thread. Space stitches about 3/8 inch apart and
do not take up more than one thread of the garment with each stitch. |
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Slip-stitched Hem
Slip-stitched hems are used
for facings and for hemming the linings in coats and dresses. Using
thread that matches fabric, take a stitch in garment, pick up one
thread (in woolen fabric, this stitch should catch only the top
threads and not go through), then insert needle through underside of
folded edge, slip it along inside the fold until you are ready to make
the next stitch. Do not draw thread tight and make stitches about 1/4
inch apart. |
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Hand-rolled Hems
Hand-rolled hems are most
suitable for use on sheer fabric, can be made on the bias or straight
of material. Use fine needle and thread. Roll edge of fabric between
them and first finger (moistening the fingers will help). Hem with
fine, even felling stitches. |
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Shell Hem
Shell hem is a decorative hem
used mostly on underwear. Baste a narrow hem about 1/4 inch or less
depending on fabric and how used, with matching thread over 2 or 3
overcast stitches over the hem, pull tight, then hem the edge for
about 1/2 inch, then repeat the overcasting stitches. |
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Circular Hem
Circular hems are used in
hemming flared skirts. First baste the finished edge line of the
skirt, turn edge 1/2 inch and gather it, then turn hem and lay flat,
hemming it to the garment. Or gather edge without turning it, using a
running stitch, finish with bias tape; then fold and fasten to garment
on wrong side.If hemming a
curved edge, make a narrow hem of 1/2 inch or less. However, if skirt
edge is quite full, circular stitched hems 1 inch wide are very
pretty. |
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Box Pleat Hem
In hemming a skirt with box
pleats, clip seam edges at point where hem will come, open seams and
press flat. Turn hem edge using a running or machine stitch, then hem
by hand. Excess fullness can be laid in small darts on both sides of
pleats. |
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Taped Hem
Taped hems can be used on
practically all fabrics, however they are especially desirable for
woolens. Do not make the first turn, instead place seam binding on
right side of raw edge, stitch completely around hem, then hem to
garment on wrong side with invisible stitches. |
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Catch-stitched Hem
A Catch-stitched hem is used
on heavy coats and jackets that are lined, also to hold hems of
fabrics that do not fray. The hem is turned once and edge is
catch-stitched to the garment. The lining covers this edge.
Wide hems, as those used for sheets and
pillow slips, are first turned in about 1/4 inch and pressed. Turn
second fold of two inches or more and baste, then hem by machine or by
hand. |
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Napery or Damask Hem
For table linens and napkins,
the napery or damask hem is used because it does not show on either
side. First turn raw edge about 1/8 inch, then fold a narrow (1/4
inch) hem and baste. Fold hem back on right side of material, so the
edges are together, and overcast the edge with tiny stitches close
together across the edge of work. Use very fine needle and thread,
work with grain of fabric. |
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