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Sewing Information
Sleeve and Shoulder Techniques
| The perfection with which sleeves
are set in a garment definitely gives a professional look to the
completed costume. Trim shoulder and sleeve lines add smartness to
the garment. When making new garments it is most important to make
any necessary alterations before you cut.
One of the most common alterations to make is in the length and
position of the shoulder line. This must be done on the pattern; do
not add or take off at bottom or top of sleeve or at arm scye
(armhole). |
| It is important to check your own
sleeve length and the length of the pattern. Lay pattern flat and
measure from the top perforation of sleeve down to the lower edge as
shown in Figure 1a.
To get sleeve length, measure from top of
shoulder, with elbow bent, down around the elbow to the wrist as
shown in Figure 1b. |
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| Now compare these
measurements. If the sleeve is too long, fold pattern below and
above elbow as shown in Figure 2.
Be careful and do not take up too
much because some sleeves should blouse at the wrist. To add length,
cut and spread pattern like in Figure 3. |
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| No sleeve fits comfortably or hangs correctly if
it is not cut right. Read and reread the instruction sheet; be sure
you know what each marking and perforation means. If it is possible,
cut both sleeves at the same time. If you must cut them one at a
time, make sure that both sleeves are not cut for the same armhole. |
| For a heavy upper arm, cut and spread pattern as
shown in Figure 4. Increase the desired width at top, tapering to
wrist; be sure to add to blouse pattern at underarm. Figure 5 shows laying a pleat in pattern if sleeve
is too large for a thin arm. |
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| The perforations marking lengthwise
of fabric should be placed with the lengthwise thread of material.
This can easily be checked by measuring from each perforation to
selvage or straight outer edge (Figure 6). Pin pattern to material.
Use even strokes when cutting, cut all notches out. |
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| Shoulders of some
individuals may slope or be straighter than the average along
front and back. Press all seams before
joining to another. Shoulder and sleeve seams should be pressed
open or to one side, depending on fabric and garment. If seam is
turned to one side, then both shoulder and underarm seam of blouse
and sleeve seam should be turned and pressed to the front.
A one piece sleeve might have gathers, darts or
pleats at the elbow to allow ease. Be sure to make these when
cutting out sleeves. |
| The length and position
of shoulder lines is also important. This seam actually holds the
garment in place. For this measurement, measure from the highest
point at neckline to one-half inch back of the highest point on tip
of shoulder. Take a pencil or rule and lay from correct point at
neckline to the correct one at tip of shoulder (Figure 7). This line
should not be visible from front or back and the garment should not
hang to the front or back. For rounded shoulders, place seams
farther back of the normal shoulder, to do this take off the back
and add to the front, by basting tissue to pattern where needed. |
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| Hold sleeve toward you
when putting it into armhole. Match notches, underarm seams, and top
center of sleeve with shoulder seam; pin at each of these
points (Figure 8). Then pin around sleeve about every inch, easing
in fullness - keep pins at right angle to seams. It is best to baste
both sleeves in and then fit. Neither the seam nor the blouse should
draw, look or feel tight. |
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| Stitch on seamline, for
added reinforcement a second stitching may be made one-fourth inch
from the first stitching. Place wrong side of arm scye (armhole)
over end of sleeve board or a tailor's board and press though a damp
cloth. Press seam toward garment, never in toward sleeve. |
One-Piece
Sleeve
Fullness at the elbow may be taken care of
in three ways: unstitched pleats, darts or gathers (Figure 9). |
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Two-Piece
Sleeve
This type of sleeve is most frequently
used in coats and suits. The slight fullness at the elbow (Figure
10) should be shrunk out by steam pressing after finely gathering
between notches. |
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Raglan Sleeve
Join the diagonal seams to the blouse
before underarm seam on blouse and sleeves are joined (Figure 11).
Clip seams every inch at the curved position. |
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Epaulet Sleeve
This type of sleeve is nice for woolen
fabric (Figure 12). Stitch underarm seam of sleeve. Join sleeve to
armhole, holding it toward you, pin, baste and stitch to where
epaulet begins. Clip at corners, turn edges under on epaulet (turn
sleeve to right side) and pin. Be sure you match notches. |
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Kimono Sleeve
A portion of the shoulder line and
underarm seam are extended on the bodice to form a slight cap
(Figure 13). The underarm seam is curved and needs to be snipped so
it will not pucker on right side. Some kimono sleeves, especially if
closely fitted, need a gusset under the arm to allow for freedom and
to protect the sleeve from tearing out. To insert the gusset, cut a
slash about three inches deep at right angles (Figure 14a) to the
seam at the top of the underarm. Cut away a portion of material if
desired. You may stitch around opening if desired. Cut a diamond
shape bias piece large enough to cover slash. Turn edge of opening
under. Place gusset on wrong side under opening, pin, baste and
stitch. Competed gusset is shown in Figure 14b. |
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Square Armhole
Sleeve is darted at top (Figure 15). With
sleeve toward you, pin in armhole matching notches, underarm seams
and shoulders. Ease in fullness, baste and stitch, clip corners and
treat carefully so they will be perfect. |
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Pointed
Armhole
The top of sleeve that fits into a pointed
armhole has a dart-like seam; press seam open before it is joined to
armhole. The sleeve is set in the same manner as all others (Figure
16). |
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Darts at Top
of Sleeve
Some dress patterns have darts at the top,
however they are used more on suits and coats. These are stitched to
points, then pressed toward center. Hold sleeve toward you and pin
to armhole, matching seams and notches (Figure 17). |
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Gathered Top
Sleeve
Make about 3 rows of stitching, pull to
size of armhole. Distribute gathers evenly. Insert in armhole and
hold sleeve toward you, pin, matching notches, shoulders and
underarms. Pin, baste and stitch along top, gathering thread (Figure
18). |
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