Double Irish Chain Quilt


Free Pattern
by KarensVariety.com

Size: 82 x 102 inches
Materials: 4 1/3 yards colour
5 1/2 yards white
1 1/2 yards for the 6 inch border

Make this popular Double Irish Chain Quilt by piecing appliqued shamrocks, hearts and bows to quilt squares.

Patchwork is a wonderful way to use scraps of fabric or old clothing. It was very popular during the depression and has become popular once again as a form of recycling. Pieces of fabric are sewn together into a design which are then usually quilted.

Patchwork is usually used to make quilts, but it can be used to make hand bags, clothing such as jackets or skirts. It can be embellished with embroidery or trim.

If you are artistic, you can design your own pattern, however there are many established patterns to choose from, each with a distinctive design and each with different variations.

Irish Chain quilts are a combination of different blocks pieced together. Variations include the Single, Double and Triple Irish Chain. Each uses a pieced and plain block sewn together in rows while giving the illusion of being sewn on the bias.

Trace each pattern on cardboard and cut out. Piece the blocks as illustrated, using white and a colour you choose. Colour is used for the shamrock and squares appliqued to the plain block; this is the same size as the pieced block. Alternate pieced with appliqued blocks. The bow and scallop makes a pretty border in any width from 6 inches up. Make the scallops of plain colour and the bows of a lighter shade.

Twenty-five 2 1/2 inch squares are required for each pieced block; 13 white and 12 coloured. One-quarter inch seams are allowed resulting in 2-inch squares; a complete block is 10 inches square.

A quilt of about 82 x 102 inches will result if 32 pieced blocks are used alternately with 31 plain white, or the white block with four 2-inch squares and shamrocks appliqued as shown. Use a 6-inch border all around and applique bows and scallops to this. 32 of each are required.

You will need about 4 1/3 yards of colour; 5 1/2 yards of white, and 1 1/2 yards for the 6 inch border.

 

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Coat or Chemise Dress


Vogue 1950s Vintage Sewing Pattern

1953 Vogue 7940
Easy-to-Make

Size 12
Bust 30
Hip 33

Pre-cut 1950s vintage sewing pattern to sew misses chemise dress or unlined coat. Front may be buttoned from neck to hem for chemise dress. Stand up band collar. Two large patch pockets with flaps. Three quarter length kimono sleeves or sleeveless. Novelty belt.

$28.00

         

Go to all Vintage Sewing Patterns,
Women – Outerwear

 

Forget-Me-Not Edging


Free Crochet Pattern by KarensVariety.com

Materials: No. 30 crochet thread
Size 9 hook or finer
Tip: Where petals and diagonal lines join, a slip stitch may be used, but the effect is much prettier if the hook is removed from the work, inserted in the petal and the stitch drawn through without turning the work. This gives a right and wrong side.
Abbreviations:
 ch  chain
 sl st  slip stitch
 sk  skip
 dc  double crochet
 sp  space

Ch 11, sl st into fifth st from hook to form centre ring or circle, ch 3, sl st in third ch beyond sl st just made, ch 3, turn, sl st in centre. This makes 3 stitches of a 4 st petal; make another petal (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) into centre; ch 3, 1 dc in centre.

This has made half a flower; ch 15, * s st in fifth ch from hook for centre, ch 3, sl st in third ch from sl st, ch 3, turn, sl st in centre. Make 3 complete petals – repeat sts in parentheses for each petal – ch 3, sl st at tip of first petal, ch 7, sl st to point from which other ch 7 was made. 1 dc in centre, ch 3, sl st in centre to complete third petal of first flower, make a fourth petal, ch 3, sl st into tip of first petal to complete it. *

Ch 5, sk 2 ch, dc for a sp, ch 8, turn. Dc over previous dc, ch 2, dc into centre st of ch 5; ch 4, sl st into tip of free petal, or remove hook, insert in petal and draw st through, ch 11 for new flower, sl st into fifth ch from hook, ch 3, sl st into third ch from sl st, ch 3, turn, sl st into centre.

Ch 3 to begin new petal, dc in centre, sl st into middle st of long ch (ch 7), dc into centre, ch 3, sl st to centre. Start a new petal with ch 3, dc in centre, then ch 4, remove hook, insert in middle or tip of next petal of end flower, draw loop through and ch 11.

Work another flower as from * to *.

You now have completed the second row of two flowers, ch 7 and sl st to point where other ch 7 joins dc sp.

Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 8 for loop, turn, dc into dc, ch 2, dc in middle st of ch 5 sp. To begin next row of flowers, ch 8, sl st in fifth st from hook, ch 3, sl st to third ch from sl st to form petal, ch 3, sl st to centre; make half of next petal, sl st to ch 7 by removing hook and picking up middle st, complete petal. Make half the next petal, ch 4, join in tip of petal below, ch 11 to start a new flower, connecting as before.

When increasing number of flowers to a row always work half of each flower, then complete outside flower and finish others as you work back to sps. As you work along, all will seem easier and you can make width changes as desired.

 

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Fabric Grain


Sewing Article by KarensVariety.com

When you sew a new garment, you must prepare the fabric before you lay out and cut the pattern pieces. If you do not take the little extra bit of time to do this, you may find that your finished garment does not hang properly. It may ride up, pull and twist when you wear it. You can iron it, tug on it but no matter what you do, it will never fit right. You should always take a moment to test the fabric for the grain.

All fabric has a grain which simply means the threads that make up the fabric run in two directions, horizontal and vertical. When you lay your pattern pieces, there is always a line in the pattern piece which says to place that line on the straight grain of the fabric.

To understand the grain, you need to understand these basic terms.

Think of a bolt of fabric. When you purchase a yard or metre, the material is pulled from the roll and laid out for cutting.

Selvage: This is the side edge on the bolt. These edges have a different texture, do not fray and often have a manufacturing stamp on them. You should not lay pattern pieces to include these edges.

Cut Edge or Fabric End: This is the end of the fabric which has been cut off the bolt and may or may not fray depending on the type of fabric.

Lengthwise Grain: runs parallel to the selvages and does not stretch.

Crosswise Grain: runs perpendicular to the selvages and has a slight amount of stretch.

Bias: runs at a 45 degree angle to the selvage and is very stretchy

The Fold: Wide fabric is often folded in half down the middle to fit the roll; the two selvage edges are together.

So you have a length of fabric with two selvage edges and two cut edges and it may or may not have a fold.

Consider two front pieces on a dress or blouse. If you lay the left front piece on the lengthwise grain of fabric and the right front piece at an angle to the first, one will have a slight stretch and one will not. When you wear the finished garment, there will be a noticeable difference in the way the two front pieces hang. One front piece will have stretch one way and the other piece will have stretch a different way. This is why it is so important to lay the fabric pieces exactly where the arrows on the pattern pieces indicate.

Preshrink Fabric: Before you begin sewing or pinning pattern pieces, always wash or dry clean your fabric. It may shrink and, of course, it is better to shrink the fabric before you sew than to have it shrink after you have made your garment. Once this has been done, proceed with the next step and check the fabric grain.

Check the Fabric Grain: An easy way to test the fabric grain is to fold a piece of fabric in half lengthwise and pin the selvage edges together. If the fabric lies perfectly flat, the grain is perfect. When you purchase fabric, it is important to lay it out and be sure that it is perfectly flat. Adjust the cut ends, not the selvage ends.

To Straighten the Fabric Grain: If the selvage edges are perfectly aligned and the fabric still does not lie flat, you can try two methods to straighten:

A. With the selvage edges pinned together, use a steam iron and starting at the selvage edges, push the iron toward the fold. (use this method on the wrong side of the fabric

B. If there is a noticeable pucker, you can pull the fabric on the bias in the direction it needs to be straightened.

 

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Fern Leaf Placemat


Free Crochet Pattern
by KarensVariety.com

Materials: No. 1 crochet hook
1 1/2 balls (180 yds) yarn
Size: approximately 17 1/2 x 11 1/2 inches
Abbreviations:
 ch  chain
 st(s)  stitch(es)
 sc  single crochet
 sl st  slip stitch
 h dc  half double crochet

The mat is made in sections and joined after crocheting.

1st Point: Ch 26, * (skip 1 st, sc in next 3) 3 times, (sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in next) twice, 4 sc, ch 1, turn, and working sc in only 1 loop at all times, sc in last 20 sc, (ch 1, turn, 18 sc, ch 1, turn, 20 sc) twice, sl st, ch 1, turn, skip sl st, * (3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, 3 sc.

2nd Point: Ch 1, turn, 16 sc, ch 16, turn, (skip 1, 3 sc) 4 times, 14 sc, * ch 1, turn, 19 sc, ch 1, turn, 13 sc, ch 1, turn, 16 sc, ch 1, turn, 21 sc, ch 1, turn, (6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, 10 sc, * sl st, ch 1, turn, skip sl st, 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 10 sc.

3rd Point: Ch 1, turn, 18 sc, ch 17, ** turn, (skip 1 st, 3 sc) 4 times, * 18 sc, ch 1, turn, 22 sc, ch 1, turn, 17 sc, ch 1, turn, 20 sc, ch 1, turn, 13 sc, ch 1, turn, 15 sc, ch 1, turn, 26 sc, ch 1, turn (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, 7 sc, * sl st, ch 1, turn, skip sl st, 4 sc, (2 sc in next st, 7 sc) 3 times, 1 sc.

4th Point: Ch 1, turn, 22 sc, ch 18, turn, (skip 1 st, 3 sc) 5 times. Repeat from * to * in 3rd Point. Ch 1, turn, 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, 7 sc) 3 times, 1 sc, ch 1, turn, 35 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn, skip sl st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next) twice, 11 sc.

5th Point: Repeat 4th Point.

6th Point: Ch 1, turn, 21 sc, ch 15. Repeat 3rd Point beginning at **.

7th Point: Ch 1, turn, 19 sc, ch 14, turn, (skip 1 st, 3 sc) 4 times, 15 sc. Repeat 2nd point from * to *. Ch 1, turn, 17 sc, ch 1, turn, 18 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn, skip sl st, 25 sc.

8th Point: Ch 1, turn, 16 sc, ch 12. Repeat 1st Point from * to *. 18 sc.

9th Point: Ch 1, turn, 9 sc, (ch 1, turn, 5 sc) 3 times, 2 sc, ch 1, turn, 7 sc, (ch 1, turn, 3 sc) 3 times, 2 sc, ch 1, turn, 5 sc, (ch 1, turn, 2 sc) 3 times, 1 sc, ch 1, turn, 3 sc, ch 2, turn , 1 sc on ch, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (h dc down in next sc, 2 sc in next) 8 times, h dc and sc down in single sc on end of next rib. Continue in same way to end.

Fasten off.

Make second half and place side by side and sew together through 1 loop of each st.

Stem: Ch 16, slip last st, sc in 2 sts, (1 h dc in next, 2 h dc in next) to end. Fasten off and sew to end of leaf. Tack tip to side of 1st Point.

Stretch and pin leaf right side down in a slight curve, steam and press. Mat may be starched if desired.

 

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KARENS VARIETY WINNERS PAGE



Congratulations! 2015

 

January Margaret Kelly
Australia
February Bonnie Peplinski
ON, Canada

 

Congratulations! 2014

 

January Rebecca Pearson
Canada
February Lynne Gabbe-Harkcom
FL, USA
March Helen Jo Sobek
PA, USA
May Shirley Younger
PA, USA
June Bonnie, Peplinski
ON, Canada
July Barbara Lima
NY, USA
August Heather Ritz
BC, Canada
September Juned Pael
France
October Kayla McKagan
NM, USA
November Kory Kormick
USA
December Dolores Miranda
NC, USA

 

Leaf Edging


Free Knitting Pattern by KarensVariety.com

Size: Edging measures approximately one inch wide.
Materials: String weight crochet thread
No. 14 steel double pointed knitting needles.
Abbreviations:
 sts  stitches
 k  knit
 p  purl
 tog  together
 O  yarn over

Cast on 8 sts.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, k 1, O, k 2 tog.

Row 3: K 2, p 1, k 5.

Row 4: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, make 7 sts in next st – to do this (k 1, O) 3 times and k 1, O, K 2 tog.

Row 5: K 2, p 7, k 5.

Row 6: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, k 7, O, k 2 tog.

Row 7: Same as Row 5.

Row 8: Same as Row 6.

Row 9: Same as Row 5.

Row 10: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, k 2 tog through back of sts, k 3, k 2 tog, O, k 2 tog.

Row 11: K 2, p 5, k 5.

Row 12: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, k 2 tog, k 1, k 2 tog, O, k 2 tog.

Row 13: K 2, p 3, k 5.

Row 14: K 1, (k 2 tog, O) twice, k 3 tog, O, k 2 tog.

Row 15: K 2, p 1, k 5.

Repeat from Row 2 for desired length.

 

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Two Color Knitted Mat


Free Knitting Pattern
by KarensVariety.com

Materials: No. 1 or 2 knitting needles
String weight thread
Two colors
as per picture; red ends and white center.
Wind red thread into two balls.
Abbreviations:
 K  knit
 P  purl
 tk  twisted knit – k back of st each time
 st  stitch
 tog  together
 sl  slip
 O  over
 psso  pass slip stitch over

Size: When completed, measures about 10 x 17 inches.

Cast on 19 red sts, 80 white sts, 19 green sts.

Row 1: In red, k 19; white, tk 80; red, k 1 (k 1, O, tk, O, k 2 tog) 3 times, k 2, O, tk, O, k 2 tog, k 1. The red sts at beginning and end of each row are always separated by 80 white sts.

Row 2: K 23; tk 80; k 1, (k 1, O, tk, O, k 2 tog) 3 times, k 2, O, tk, O, k 2 tog, k 1. Always end each row with k 1.

Row 3: K 23; tk 80; k 1, (k 2 tog, O, tk, O, k 2 tog) 3 times, k 3, O, tk, O, k 2 tog. The stitches in parenthesis are repeated three times in each row and will be indicated by (3).

Row 4: K 24; tk 80; end as Row 3.

Row 5: K 24; tk 80; k 1, (3), k 4, O, tk, O, k 2 tog.

Row 6: K 25; tk 80; k 1, (3), end as Row 5.

Row 7: K 25; tk 80; k 1, (3), k 2 (O, tk, O, k 2 tog) twice.

Row 8: K 27; tk 80; k 1, (3), end as Row 7.

Row 9: K 27; tk 80; k 1, (3), k 3, O, tk, O, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog.

Row 10: psso – k 2 tog (sl 1 st, k 2 tog, pass sl st over), k 24; tk 80; end as Row 9.

Row 11: psso – k 2 tog, k 24; tk 80; k 1 (3), k 4, O, tk, O, psso – k 2 tog.

Row 12: K 25; tk 80; k 1, (3), end as Row 11.

Rows 13 through 17: Repeat rows 7 through 11.

Row 18: K 25; k 80; k 1, (3), k 4, O, tk, O, psso – k 2 tog.

Rows 19 through 29: Repeat rows 7 through 11 in sequence for beginning and end of rows. The 80 sts are stockinette st instead of tk 80 – that means you should alternate, k one row and p the next, for these 12 rows.

Row 30: K 25; tk 80; k 1, (3), k 4, O, tk, O, psso – k 2 tog.

Repeat rows 7 through 30 for desired width. The last four rows should be worked with the 80 sts tk, as follows:

Row 1: K 25; 80 sts; k 1, (3), k 5, O, tk, O, k 2 tog.

Row 2: K 26; 80 sts, k 1, (3), end as Row 1.

Row 3: K 26; 80 sts; k 1, (3), k 7, k 2 tog.

Row 4: psso – k 2 tog, k 20, 80 sts; k 1, (3), k 4, k 2 tog, psso – k 2 tog.

Bind off loosely; care should be taken to keep sts from drawing.

Starch, stretch in true shape and press dry through a cloth.

 

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Poodle Slippers


Free Crochet Pattern
by KarensVariety.com

Materials: Size G crochet hook
4-oz knitting worsted yarn
One pair inner soles
1/8 yard turquoise felt
Lightweight cardboard
Scraps of black and white felt.
Sequins and beads
Abbreviations:
 ch  chain
 sl st  slip stitch
 sc  single crochet
 inc  increase
 sk  skip
Gauge: 4 sc equal 1 inch
4 rows equal 1 inch

Soles: Cut 4 pieces of cardboard same size as inner sole. Cut 4 pieces of turquoise felt slightly larger. Hold 2 pieces of cardboard and one inner sole together and cover with two pieces of felt, whipping edges together. Make other sole same way.

Top: Starting at toe, ch. 2.

Row 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * once more (8 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in first 2 sc, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, repeat from * once more (10 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (12 sc), ch 1, turn.

Rows 5 and 6: Sc in each sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc (14 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Repeat Row 6.

Rows 9 through 14: Repeat Rows 4, 5, and 6 twice (18 sc).

Row 15: Make 2 sc in the 4th, 8th, 11th and 15th sc (22 sc). Work 3 rows even.

Side Piece: Work first 7 sc, ch 1, turn. Work these sts, inc 1 st at inner edge every 4th row 4 times. Work even on 11 sc until piece will reach to center back of sole. Fasten off. Sk center 8 sc, join yarn in next sc, ch 1, sc in same sc, and next 6 sc. Work other side piece to correspond.

Ears: (Make 4) – Starting at tip, ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (3 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc (4 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc in first and last sc (6 sc). Work 9 rows even.

Rows 13, 14 and 15: Sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc, 3 sc remain.

Fasten off.

Finishing: Sew top to sole, sew back seam. Cut 2 strips of felt 3/4 inch wide and long enough to fit over slipper above edge of instep. Trim with sequins and sew in place. Fold top of ears lengthwise and sew to corners of instep. Cut circles of black and white felt, cut a V in side of black felt. Sew black felt over white felt with sequin at center for each eye. Cut a semi-circle of black felt and sew over top of slipper for nose. Wind yarn 50 times over 4 fingers. Tie securely at center, clip loops and sew to edge of instep. Work 1 row sl st around top edge, holding it in to fit, or draw a length of round elastic through edge to keep it snug.

 

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